This winter has been brutal in China, and no part of the country has been spared. Even in Zhongshan in the south, about the same latitude as Florida, it has been so cold that I have to wear a down coat. The same down coat I wear up in Beijing. According to my father, last year it was so warm during Spring Festival he could wear a t-shirt out. Not so this year (and we have global warming to thank) Although it's about 15 degrees Celsius warmer here, the dampness creates a bone-chilling type of cold, the same type of cold you get in London, Paris, and Shanghai.

Cold weather makes me long for piping hot dishes, like clay pot braises. Last night I decided to make clay pot chicken, and adapted a Vietnamese-style braise from Chef Charles Phan of San Francisco's Slanted Door. One of the major changes I made was the amount of fish sauce. The original recipe called for 3 tablespoons, which I would not recommend to anyone hoping to keep a decent-smelling kitchen. (See Vietnamese Caramelized Pork.) I reduced the amount to 1 teaspoon or a few drops, which is plenty for enhancing the flavors of the dish.

You can also make this dish both mild or spicy. I tossed in seeded Thai chilli, which added a mild tinge; for more spice, just leave the seeds in.

Clay Pot Chicken
Adapted from Chef Charles Phan, via Epicurious

Serves 4

1/4 cup (60 ml) dark soy sauce
1/2 (120 ml) cup water
2 tablespoons white vinegar
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon white sugar

3 tablespoons cooking oil
4 chicken thighs

1/2 cup (85 g) packed dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon fish sauce
1 Thai chillis, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, peeled and minced

1 medium red onion, thinly sliced
4 to 5 fresh shiitake mushrooms, destemmed and halved

Serve with rice on the side

Equipment: Clay pot, work or large skillet

Combine the soy sauce, water, white vinegar, lemon juice, and sugar in a bowl and set aside.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a wok on medium-high heat. Carefully place chicken thighs in the wok and sear until golden brown, about 7 minutes on each side.

While the chicken is searing, melt brown sugar in the clay pot over medium heat, stirring frequently to avoid scorching. When sugar comes to a full boil, slowly add fish sauce. Add the soy sauce mixture, Thai chilli, garlic, and ginger. When the chicken is done searing, carefully remove from wok and place into clay pot. Cover with lid and bring liquid to a simmer.

In the same wok, add remaining tablespoon of oil and stir-fry onions and shiitakes. When onions are caremelized and shiitakes are cooked, about 6 to 7 minutes, transfer to clay pot. Simmer covered until chicken is cooked through, about 20 to 25 minutes from this point.

When chicken is cooked, add salt and pepper to the liquid to taste. Remove from heat carefully and serve immediately with rice on the side.