Travelers to Shanghai sometimes expect to find a vibrant street food scene that’s on par with that of Bangkok, Singapore, Chengdu, and other tropical or subtropical Asian cities. But because of a northern-ish climate (despite the Beijing tendency to think of Shanghai as “the south”) and a culture that prefers indoor eating, good street food is hard to find. Zhongshan Lu has a few lamb skewer vendors, but is mainly a tourist trap for shopping and glitzy lights. Yuyuan Bazaar, home of the over-hyped Nanxiang soup dumplings, is just a tourist trap, period.
One place is Shanghai that locals actually frequent is the Muslim market in northern Jing’an, held only on Fridays after prayer service at the Huxi mosque. Starting around 11am, vendors set up their stands of cooked lamb, nan, dried nuts and fruit, and Arabic DVDs. Not to disparage Han ethnic culture, but sometimes it’s nice to plant myself in a spot where the locals don’t look or speak like the 1.3 billion majority.
Many of the vendors from Xinjiang had carts selling homemade nan. The plain naan are shaped like stars. The salty naan are big disks. The sweet naan look like New York bagels but taste more like hard rolls, with none of the pillowy density. Since most of vendors are Uighurs from Xinjiang province, I had previously thought their “girdeh naan” had Islamic Turkic origins. But maybe there’s also some Jewish influence into Xinjiang, and subsequently their bagel-naan. One things for sure: you won’t find any poppy seed bagels.
Some food selections: dinner-roll-sized dumplings for 2 yuan each, langman (spicy cold noodles), lamb skewers, lamb broth, lamb shoulder in big chunks. If you smile sweetly the vendor may give you a piece to try.
After some dumplings and lamb samples, what you’ll crave most is a cold drink. There’s no soda or lemonade, but doogh sellers will gladly make you an iced yogurt drink on request. They chip off ice from a big block into a styrofoam bowl, add homemade yogurt, and mix in honey. It tastes like thinned out lassi, which is perfect if you’re so thirsty you gulp down the bowl.
Aside from the dumplings and yogurt drink, the quality of the food is also debatable. A bowl of Xinjiang pulao, rice with carrots and onions and topped with braised lamb, was cold and pretty bland. The Egyptian and Uighur Ph.D students I met had the same sentiments about their food, but added there were few other halal choices in Shanghai.
Despite having less than spectacular food variety, the atmosphere still makes it my top pick for street food in Shanghai. The other tourist board-designated snack streets in Shanghai and Beijing can’t compare.
Friday Muslim Market
In front of the Huxi Mosque
1328 Changde Lu, near Aomen Lu
Northern Jing’an District, Shanghai
The closest subway stop is Zhenping Lu. From there, walk south 15 to 20 minutes.
{ 14 comments… read them below or add one }
Yuyuan Bazaar, over-rated dumplings. Im glad you mentioned that. Went to shanghai back in 2005 and of course since we went with a tour group went there to eat. Before everyone was telling me how amazing and delicious the dunplings were, went there tasted and was not impressed really.
Maybe coz i had high expectations due to the hype of the ‘amazing’ dumplings they served.
Love your blog! =)
Oooh, very interesting! Don’t really know too much about non-Han goings on, being Han myself (although, I’m not too sure about that, hehe.). =D
It’s very informative post. I heard from some friends who visited China, it’s very hard to find halal food for them. Thanks.
I LOVE reading your blog – it’s just so interesting!!
I am always curious about the culture of other minority groups in China. Thank you so much for giving us a glimpse. I would love to visit this market someday.
The best place for street food in Shanghai? Morning breakfast in the markets. I dream about going back to Shanghai just for the breakfast delicacies. You should definitely try it out, almost any open air market hawks food.
apart from Halal food, muslims could eat vegetarian or any non pork products in china, if Halal is not readily available.
I never knew there were muslim food was so popular in Shanghai.
Thanks for sharing.
Diana,
I’m going to Shanghai for 5 days in early January. Yuyuan Bazaar sounds like a place to avoid, but I won’t be there on a Friday, so the Muslim Market won’t be a viable option. Is there any other food markets you would recommend?
Much appreciated!
Unfortunately, Shanghai is pretty much a wasteland for vibrant food
markets. There are wet markets here and there, but they tend to be
small, cramped, and not too interested. There is a large seafood market
way in the northwest of the city, but it pales in comparison to similar
markets in southern China and Southeast Asia.
(It’s pretty hard to get to on public transportation. I’d suggest taking a cab.)
Link: http://www.infoyu.net/NewsCenter/MarketTrade/08-1-11-15.html
If you’re just interested in street food, I always recommend Huanghe Lu for xiaolongbao and pan-friend dumplings:
http://appetiteforchina.com/pan-fried-meaty-and-juicy
I usually find the best street foods in Pudong. . Its hard but you have to chase the vendors as they are always on the move!
i travel to China every year and can be found eating a large cup of Zhou within hours of getting there.
Great post, I’m going today to this market, really looking forward to it!
I came across your blog researching on something different to do in Shanghai, and asking some of my local friends in Shanghai and they didn’t know of this Muslim market, must be one of the best kept secrets of Shanghai…
thanks
Thank u so much for this info! Im a student here in Shanghai and for me it is very hard for to find halal food in Shanghai. I’ve been in Shanghai for almost 3 weeks nw and ive been eating at home only. so maybe you could help and tell me where to find halal food in shanghai. and yea i will visit this market place, its been weeks that i have not eaten any bread! heheh. so i hope i will find the market.
Thanks! =D